See ya!

One of the things that gets me the most about Hungarian is something that correlates in a sort-of hysterical reversal with English.  When you enter a shop, for example, you generally say “szia!” (pronounced exactly like “see ya!”).  When you leave the same shop, it is very customary to exclaim “hello!” (meaning “bye!”).

Here is a wonderful cafe around the corner I can’t wait to go back to:

the inside of the cafe

The tiny chair in front cracks me up.

Hello!

I have been making these strange map-like drawings.

Michael and I have been talking about the nature of this seeming pseudo scientific “study” I am undertaking.  It’s somehow anthropological and, of course, contrived.  I really am sort of finding out what I am doing as I go and am enjoying the process of exploration.  They remind me a bit of a Russian artist who was very well-represented at the Venice Biennale this year, Pavel Pepperstein:

an image I took of one of his pieces in the Russian Pavilion

and also the drawings of  Nedko Solakov, to whom Mark and I were introduced (his work, not him unfortunately) at documenta 11 in 2007:

I admire the work of both artists very much, and though I am not consciously trying to emulate their invented documentary-like drawings, I do see the connection.  This is my favorite one so far though my little point-and-shoot camera doesn’t capture it very well:

I think I tend to do this at home too, but especially when traveling, I like to surround myself with what are essentially souvenirs in the very literal sense of the word.  I love the word souvenir (from the French for “memory”).  I think many people do this, Todd Selby, does a great job capturing this, as I have mentioned before.  Here is my little still life, a sort of shrine to travel and adventure: some stones and glass from sites visited on this trip, a skull eraser procured at the giftshop at the Pinault collection, some lavendar I purchased from a street vendor here, a little Victorian-inspired brass clip in the shape of a hand I got at a shop in Vienna, a ceramic amulet given to me at the Iran pavillion at the Venice Biennale, and the prettiest bottle of mineral water I have ever had on a train (ok, so I drank the water).

There’s no sun on this particular Sunday.  We tried to go out to Szentendre, which is an artist community, but our day trip was rained out.  It’s too bad, but we’ll get there on a nicer day soon.  We did get a chance to see some Roman ruins before the rain started falling.  I like the way they contrast with the contemporary architecture.

Michael, Beata, and Maxie Honey Bunny checking out the ruins

We are meeting some really great people here, and have been checking out the local nightlife.  Last night I got dinner with a friend and met Michael and some other people at Corvinteto.  It’s a really amazing hang-out spot on the roof of a grocery store.  Someone told me it used to be a Socialist department store, but I’m not sure about that… I don’t have any photos, but on the beautiful breezy evening with an amazing view of the Budapest skyline with really nice people, drinking fröccs (a mix of wine and soda water- basically spritz), it was the perfect way to spend a Saturday night.  We ended the evening by getting some lángos (traditional Hungarian fried dough served with garlic, cheese, sour cream, etc.)  I had the garlicy version and it was perfect.

Here are a couple of drawings I have been working on…

...having something to do with Virginia Woolf

two Amelia Earhart drawings

Where are these weird little guys coming from?  Tomorrow I am meeting a friend to go art supply shopping.  The main art shop is closed until Friday, so that is a bit of an impediment, but we will prevail!  I want to get some oil paint to translate some of the little island images into larger paintings.  Right now Michael is cooking up some pasta with sauteed garlic and Hungarian spicy sauce.  It smells amazing, so I am going to go eat!

Though I have been inside making work for the better part of this week, we do get out to play from time to time.  Last night we attended an opening near the Basilica.

The skies were ominous and we ducked inside a cafe just time time to escape the rain.  Some new friends were not so fortunate and came in completely soaked.

Here are some images of my situation.  I am staying in an apartment in the Jewish Quarter of Budapest.  It is a side street, but still realtively active, as there are plenty of shops and restaurants.  At first I was relieved that we had a 24-hour convenience store (here called a “non-stop”, which is displayed on the storefront in English) across the street, but then realized that all of the commotion I heard through my window the night before was people hanging out at the non-stop.  I am relieved to have brought my earplugs.  Here are some images of the apartment:

the living room (not that we spend much time watching TV- a little of The Office here and there)

there’s a kitchen- hooray!

the courtyard

our little terrace, good for unwinding

my studio space

I have a roommate, who I get along with really well. Mark had a chance to meet him too.  This residency is unique in that explicit studio space is not designated.  Since the living conditions are a lot nicer than some other residencies, it’s an okay trade-off.  It was difficult to negotiate at first, but since Beata, the woman who runs the program, found us a studio space outside the apartment, we decided that my roommate would work there and I would work in the apartment.  The arrangement seems to suit our particular practices nicely.  Finally, and importantly, here is where I get to eat breakfast every morning:

Mint Cafe and the nice people who serve up my espresso each morning

I have a voucher for breakfast each morning (cereal, rolls, jams, margarine, orange juice and tea or coffee), so I don’t pay each time.  So, even though I have already paid, it feels as though I am getting it for free.  Ege’szege’dre! (Hungarian for Cheers!)

Speaking of unfamiliar languages, I think when in a foreign land, the words we learn to say really reveal what we value.  For instance, I now know how to ask for soda water and a large black coffee in Italian, German, and Hungarian.